Claire's brings flavors of the world to Hardwick By Sylvia Fagin

original flavor sunflower seeds From his post in the kitchen, chef Steven Obranovich surveys thedining room through an open pass-through window. Guests trade bitesof succulent crabcake and spoonfuls of creamy sunchoke soup,nodding at the flavors with appreciation.The dining room of Claire's Restaurant in Hardwick is regal. Eachpolished wooden table is graced with a delicate green and goldglass lamp, and the room glows with streams of evening sunlightreflected off pale yellow walls. A couple on their way out stops at the window to express theircompliments to the chef, who thanks them with his signature wrysmile.Claire's promises "local ingredients, open to the world," andObranovich and his colleagues deliver. Since opening on May 24,they've been consistently busy, giving downtown Hardwick a wholenew flavor. The restaurant is named for local artist and legendary hostessClaire Fern, whose artwork graces the walls. From huge, colorfulpaintings to tiny pen and ink sketches, there's something foreveryone's taste. The same can be said for the menu. "One important thing for us is that everybody in town can come,"Obranovich explains. "We really want to have a range ofaffordability." He's provided a range of tastes as well. The menuchanges regularly, according to what's available from localgrowers. "Last week a friend called and said, 'Does Steven need any ramps?'"Obranovich recalls. Of course he said yes to the query, thencaramelized the bulbs of the wild onions, and tossed them with thebraised green tops, goat cheese, mint pesto and pasta.This typifiesObranovich's cooking style. "I see what comes in and work with it. I don't plan a menu withspecific dishes. It's kind of an anti-corporate thing," he admits,alluding to some past jobs where the process of creating menus was"pitched, priced," and standardized in a way that smotheredcreativity. His creations are inspired by the flavors of the world;recipes from Latin America and Morocco"anything with heat" areamong his favorites. The opening weekend menu featured steak grilled to order, toppedwith chimichurri sauce, an Argentinean combination of garlic, redpepper flakes and vinegar; chicken mol